Another week in Mother India! And what an amazing week it’s been!

Last weekend, we managed to make a trip to Agra and Fatehpur Sikri where we were able to experience a center of Mughal art and culture. You learn about these great rulers through stories, but they become
so much more real when you see where they lived, where they walked, and where they ruled.

 At the top of the hill at Fatehpur Sikri, you can look out from the majestic gate and see the entire town below. Though hundreds of years old, the lines of the ancient streets still slowly meander through the hectic city to the high arched gates (which one still has to enter through to get into the city). The gates are connected by the skeleton of a high wall, hidden behind the guise of more modern buildings. You would miss this omnipresent history if you weren't looking for it. But seeing all this together, you get a true sense of the age of the city; the world that it once was to the world that it has now become.

The boys and men eager to sell you anything are as thick as mosquitos in a bog. You'll trip over them if you step out of stride. And give one of them a glance and he will jump on your back, ecstatic that you acquiesced to his desperate sales pitches. But these swarms abate in the palace of Akbar, where an admission fee is required. There the tranquil scene of the opulent rich is well preserved. Quiet serenity framed by curved arches and domes invite the viewer to imagine a procession of some Mughal Princess followed by her many servants. It's a different world entirely within the walls of the palace.

After Fatehpur Sikri we ventured back to Agra. On the road back, there was terrible traffic, because as it turns out one of the trucks broke down in the middle of the road. I was surprised that this was my first time witnessing these behemoths collapsed under the stress and strain of their use. I was not too perturbed by the wait however. In fact as I noticed the comical frustrations of policemen and other drivers bubble to skirmishes, it was honestly entertaining to see how various people
dealt with the impossible problem. The police decided that it could only be the driver’s fault that some gear had finally given up under the strain of hauling overweight loads. Who else could be to blame? Despite 6 or so men trying to push the colorfully painted vehicle to the side of the road, it was only the drivers fault the truck wasn't moving fast enough. The police in response took out his switch made from a sitick nearbyand in the middle of a quarrel hit him on the head. The driver had barely enough time to pull his head back in his truck, and so only got a piece of the officials wrath. Taking out his frustrations, the police beat the truck a few times, delivering justice from all the other angry drivers around him. It must have worked because within 15 minutes the truck was out of the way and we were on our way back to Agra.

We stayed at a lavish hotel for only $120 a night, $40 per person. The hotel was a nice getaway from the normal frustrations in India. Hot water, plush towels and blankets, and gourmet food (complimentary) all gave use much needed reprieve from the adventures in the hot sun. That night we went to a local bazaar where they sold jewels. The jewelers, experienced in their trade of customer service, were certain each of us would walk away with a diamond or ruby and treated us accordingly.

One man was convinced that even if I didn't have a reason to buy a diamond or ruby yet, one would surely come soon and a half priced gem in India would save me much more money now than one would at home. Interested only to see their wares, I almost lead the man on, complementing the various gems he presented to me. Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds, Topaz, Gold, Silver, you name it, they had it and for a
guaranteed bargain price. Once we all knew it was time to leave we ceased our questions and interest in concert; we’ve been here for three weeks now, we know how this works. Perhaps considered rude at home, it was the only way to get out of the increasingly emotional business negotiations. Leaving
empty handed, the man followed us out, cooing us with last minute prices to see if he could change our minds. We left silently empty handed, but with a good story. And that always makes it worth it.

We slept little that night to wake up early to see the Taj Mahal. At 6am we ventured to the monument. The office was teeming with sellers and drivers who promised you deals you wouldn't find anywhere else. Half the adventure was meandering through them. We got our tickets, and ventured to the Taj. You enter through one of the various gates into a courtyard. The Mughal architecture surrounds you and in these anti-chambers you almost prepare yourself for the main eye-feast soon to be had. But once you step through the main gate, the Taj fills the horizon. And it takes your breath away.

Despite seeing pictures all my life, I couldn't have prepared myself for the Taj. It’s almost impossible to take in the white monolith standing omnipresently before you. And it becomes clear the message
Shar Jahan wanted to send to the Taj's onlookers. He wanted to shock you and awe you and make your realize how deep his love was for this wife. More so what power he had.

The Tomb comes up to the River Yamuna. The river was high from all the recent flooding that had happened and the pace was fast. There was no reflection in the muddied waters, but the early sun reflected off of the marble and any picture was almost too bright to see.

Inside, it was plain. White Marble halls carved to Mughal arches; empty chambers that filtered light through intricately carved window panes. Walking around inside in a circle, you felt almost part of a
religious practice, encircling a holy spot, only to catch a glimpse of the graves through more patterened glassless windows every twenty or so steps. It was almost like the Taj blossomed from the graves, offering symmetric layers that each was more sacred than the last.

After the Taj we had a nice breakfast at the hotel. That afternoon we visited Itimad-ud-Daulah on the River Yamuna. At this tomb, the intricate wall murals had survived, somehow. Despite outside the
tumultuous traffic, sandy streets, shanty shacks for shops, and trashladen ditches, the tomb had maintained its calm and serenity inside its hallowed walls. Looking out from inside the compound, you can only imagine how much has changed.

We left shortly after and made it back to Delhi within 2 hours. Overall it was a great first trip in India.

This week I began my work at Novus. As part of a shift legal profession Novus prides itself on approaching the legal profession differently. I won’t go into too many details, but the business models, the practical self-analysis, and the project management focus has created a very successful work environment. Along with what Bill Henderson has discussed in many of his articles, this is truly showing that the legal profession has moved into a new age; an age of project management instead of legal specialization. This new machinery fits much better to the specific needs of clients. Over the next few weeks, I’m excited to be a part of this already prestigious group.

During the week, I also managed to visit some Gurdwaras in the city, a Hare Krishna temple, and do some shopping at local markets. It seems no matter where you go in India, there is color, life, and excitement. It paints every moment of life, from spiritual to capital, and always creates adventure. 

Monday morning I attended a breakfast with former Secretary of State Madeline Albright, where she said, “Corruption is the cancer to any society.” She received quiet applause from the thirty or so guests in attendance; executives of large Indian and American corporations, ministers in government, and interns from various affiliated organizations.  The topic was politics in general, but the conversation continued to hinge on the former secretaries impressions on India. The more senior guests wanted to know why predictions for economic growth and development in India had run short in the last decade, why the rapid growth seen in China had not been duplicated in India, and why pro-business policies were seen as anti-poor policies in India. One could have assumed her job was to assuage these leaders and simply encourage them to continue forward.

With each question she heralded a common answer: a government that does not work for the people, will not be trusted by the people. A government that does not have a dialogue in democracy cannot answer the needs of all of its citizens. A government riddled with corruption will beleaguer development. A government that does not address development, does not have the trust of the people, and does not answer the needs of its citizens will fail to function as a government.  She compared many of India’s political problems to America’s own; political gridlock and public mistrust. But it was her criticism of corruption that truly aimed at the heart of a great controversy in India: how can one weed out corruption when it is so inherent in the system?

The topic of conversation at the breakfast was relevant to my work this week. I assisted the American Chamber of Commerce in India on creating the foundation for a guidebook on compliance with Anti-Corruption laws, specifically the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act of the United States. Not only was I able to go through several memos relating to how business’s comply with the FCPA, but also was able to talk with business officials on how their company’s work on compliance with the law. The ideas I got from these sources served as the basis for the guidebook and eventual training program for mid-level managers. The idea is to offer American companies coming to India a valuable resource to prepare everyone who will be working in the country on how to deal with corruption. And in a country where the bureaucracy crutches itself with bribes, corruption is an ever looming problem in the business community.

Outside of work, I’ve been able to explore the ins and outs of the city a little more. I visited the Lotus Temple and the surrounding park this week. For the second time since I’ve been here, I felt completely and utterly relaxed. Inside the temple, there was silence, and even when it started to rain, the soft sounds of a summer’s storm only added to the meditative atmosphere. I sat through three tours of the temple, just looking out over the park as the rain cooled off the steamy city. High above, the symbol of the Baha’i faith glowed, and while no photography was allowed, visitors blatantly took out their iPhones and iPads to take a picture.

The next day I ventured north and was able to walk around the Red Fort Area. It’s amazing how many markets and temples are strewn about the city. I was simply wandering from market to temple when the sun went down and before I knew it, the streets became almost dark. With the street lights not working and single bulbs lighting up shops, the entire scene changed. I tried to find my way back the way I came, but Metro construction obscured what I thought would have taken me back to the station. But soon I reached the main street again and found myself among glittering temples and shops. It’s astonishing how one street can be so different from its neighbor.

This was the first week where I haven’t felt culture shock. I’m starting to get the hang of living here, starting to feel more accustomed to the differences. It’s a start that will hopefully carry me through the rest of my time here to make this opportunity the most it can be!

Foreigner Frustrations

June 14, 2013

When first coming to Delhi from a developed country, the city can be frustrating. While culturally there may be some differences, the marked frustrations come from the lack of luxuries that normally one takes for granted. For example, upon first arriving nothing seemed organized in Delhi. There are no rules in traffic, the water from the tap is not safe, transportation comes when it can, trash lies in the street waiting for someone to pick it up, stray dogs sleep away the hot days under parked cars congesting a small alley, too many employees crowd small alley stores, rolling brownouts don’t cause the blink of an eye, a sidewalk is a rare blessing, and it never seems like the grocery store kilometers away has what you need. In the face of so many annoyances, they beg the question, why can't this be better?

 While these differences seem unorganized to me, you discover after spending two weeks here that this madness is functionality. In a city of millions, the dangerous driving and habitual honking are efficient. The brownouts and unsafe drinking water are symptoms to the reality that Delhi is delivering these services constantly to more and more people. While it may seem that every store is overstaffed, so many more people have jobs that need them. So while these differences frustrated me, I see now there is a purpose. Further, that these are symptoms that Delhi is working on its problems and not just trying to annoy the traveler from the developed country. 

    Here are somethings that happened this week:

                This week I got sick from some food I ate. I’m not sure what it was, but as soon as the strange bacteria hit my stomach, I knew. Luckily I had an awesome anti-biotic and it took care of the problem right away. But I’m starting to understand how people can die from dehydration from these illnesses so quickly!

                Everyday to and from work, I’ve taken an auto-rickshaw. They remind me of a fair ride; they’re pretty rickety, minimal safety assurances, and questionable operating staff. But they are very cheap and they get you where you need to go! It usually takes me a few tries to get a good driver; a lot of times the drivers try to charge me extra by not using the meter, sometimes they don’t know where I want to go, and other times where I want to go is too far for them (2km…I guess that's too far for someone who is in the business of transporting people....) But they always make for a good story! Like yesterday I had a driver who stopped in the middle of an exit ramp and ran to get some water. I sat in this little rickshaw for two minutes as cars whizzed by and honked their horns, thinking this would be such an anticlimactic way to kick the can. Nothing happened of course and he was kind to bring some water back, but it was pretty murky and looked more like mud than water so I kindly turned him down.I'm surprised more of the drivers haven't stopped for water! It gets so hot and they're out in it all day and night!

                I’ve been working on various cases some of the associates at the office have, and then working on a larger more comprehensive project on compliance with the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act for new businesses in India. Both are actually really interesting and each time I have to do something new I learn a lot because I have no former knowledge of Indian Law. Everyone at the firm is nice! I’m sad that I’ll have to rotate to a new firm soon!

                Last weekend we were able to go shopping and this weekend we can hopefully do a little of the same! Prices are incredibly cheap if you know where to go; and if you’re a girl, clothes are incredibly colorful and beautiful. (I’m kind of jealous….).

                Overall I’m still getting acclimated to the differences abundant in India; but I’m getting the hang of it, slowly but surely!

               

Welcome to New Delhi

June 7, 2013 

                I was told by one of my Co-workers that in India there are the poor, the rich, and then the super rich. But such simple classification doesn’t give true color to the sheer weight of those descriptive words. One of my first days, I took a walk around the neighborhood in the hotel where I was living. Dirt laden streets with trash scattered about open water drains frame modern, chic retail stores surrounded by BMWs. From my window, I can see a local clinic where people spend nights sleeping outside its brick walls after begging in the intersection for most of the hot day. Right next to the Sealy mattress store is a boulevard turned camp, where people cooking, sleeping, living in the street watch younger Indians dressed in beautiful saris or Tommy Hilfiger take bicycle rickshaws to the nearest metro station. Far from the city center are massive malls that resemble only Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, full of only the nicest commercial outlets. Around the new mall construction are shanty towns with people living on tin houses three stories tall. It’s such a conundrum to see such vast poverty right beside such lofty wealth, but it is the reality in Delhi. And these worlds live side by side creating one vibrant, dissonant, and captivating society.

                I suppose this has been just one shell from the bombardment of culture shock that has been India within a week. My first night I was jipped by the cab driver, who conned a jet lagged, confused-about-the-conversation-rate American out of $60, and arrived at my darkened hotel with stray dogs roaming on the steps. Not experienced in Indian cuisine and adverse to spicy foods, my first two days here it took time to adjust. But not but two nights later I had cocktails at the Nigerian High Commission in Delhi followed by dinner at the famous Hotel Taj. So far this has been a rollercoaster of events and experiences that if continues will surely lead to a wonderfully adventurous summer.

                As for the rest of my week I began work at Koura and Company and have been working on various projects with them. Furthermore, I’ve adventured some on the Metro and around my neighborhood, finally finding a place where I can buy my own milk and bread! Interestingly there are a few Hindu temples in the neighborhood that hopefully I’ll be able to see closer soon. Today I attended a conference between Nigeria and India discussing Energy production and development and how both countries are tackling electrifying the countries. Afterwards, I took an auto Rickshaw to the DLF Mall! But after about an hour in the Autorickshaw the 110 degree heat gets to you and I was feeling quite tired tonight. The combination of jet lag, 110 degrees, and running around can really wear you down, but man is it worth it! I can’t wait to see what the next week brings!