Another week in Mother India! And what an amazing week it’s
been!
Last weekend, we managed to make a trip to Agra and Fatehpur
Sikri where we were able to experience a center of Mughal art and culture. You
learn about these great rulers through stories, but they become
so much more real when you see where they lived, where they walked, and where they ruled.
so much more real when you see where they lived, where they walked, and where they ruled.
At the top of the
hill at Fatehpur Sikri, you can look out from the majestic gate and see the
entire town below. Though hundreds of years old, the lines of the ancient
streets still slowly meander through the hectic city to the high arched gates
(which one still has to enter through to get into the city). The gates are
connected by the skeleton of a high wall, hidden behind the guise of more
modern buildings. You would miss this omnipresent history if you weren't
looking for it. But seeing all this together, you get a true sense of the age
of the city; the world that it once was to the world that it has now become.
The boys and men eager to sell you anything are as thick as mosquitos in a bog. You'll trip over them if you step out of stride. And give one of them a glance and he will jump on your back, ecstatic that you acquiesced to his desperate sales pitches. But these swarms abate in the palace of Akbar, where an admission fee is required. There the tranquil scene of the opulent rich is well preserved. Quiet serenity framed by curved arches and domes invite the viewer to imagine a procession of some Mughal Princess followed by her many servants. It's a different world entirely within the walls of the palace.
After Fatehpur Sikri we ventured back to Agra. On the road back, there was terrible traffic, because as it turns out one of the trucks broke down in the middle of the road. I was surprised that this was my first time witnessing these behemoths collapsed under the stress and strain of their use. I was not too perturbed by the wait however. In fact as I noticed the comical frustrations of policemen and other drivers bubble to skirmishes, it was honestly entertaining to see how various people
dealt with the impossible problem. The police decided that it could only be the driver’s fault that some gear had finally given up under the strain of hauling overweight loads. Who else could be to blame? Despite 6 or so men trying to push the colorfully painted vehicle to the side of the road, it was only the drivers fault the truck wasn't moving fast enough. The police in response took out his switch made from a sitick nearbyand in the middle of a quarrel hit him on the head. The driver had barely enough time to pull his head back in his truck, and so only got a piece of the officials wrath. Taking out his frustrations, the police beat the truck a few times, delivering justice from all the other angry drivers around him. It must have worked because within 15 minutes the truck was out of the way and we were on our way back to Agra.
We stayed at a lavish hotel for only $120 a night, $40 per person. The hotel was a nice getaway from the normal frustrations in India. Hot water, plush towels and blankets, and gourmet food (complimentary) all gave use much needed reprieve from the adventures in the hot sun. That night we went to a local bazaar where they sold jewels. The jewelers, experienced in their trade of customer service, were certain each of us would walk away with a diamond or ruby and treated us accordingly.
The boys and men eager to sell you anything are as thick as mosquitos in a bog. You'll trip over them if you step out of stride. And give one of them a glance and he will jump on your back, ecstatic that you acquiesced to his desperate sales pitches. But these swarms abate in the palace of Akbar, where an admission fee is required. There the tranquil scene of the opulent rich is well preserved. Quiet serenity framed by curved arches and domes invite the viewer to imagine a procession of some Mughal Princess followed by her many servants. It's a different world entirely within the walls of the palace.
After Fatehpur Sikri we ventured back to Agra. On the road back, there was terrible traffic, because as it turns out one of the trucks broke down in the middle of the road. I was surprised that this was my first time witnessing these behemoths collapsed under the stress and strain of their use. I was not too perturbed by the wait however. In fact as I noticed the comical frustrations of policemen and other drivers bubble to skirmishes, it was honestly entertaining to see how various people
dealt with the impossible problem. The police decided that it could only be the driver’s fault that some gear had finally given up under the strain of hauling overweight loads. Who else could be to blame? Despite 6 or so men trying to push the colorfully painted vehicle to the side of the road, it was only the drivers fault the truck wasn't moving fast enough. The police in response took out his switch made from a sitick nearbyand in the middle of a quarrel hit him on the head. The driver had barely enough time to pull his head back in his truck, and so only got a piece of the officials wrath. Taking out his frustrations, the police beat the truck a few times, delivering justice from all the other angry drivers around him. It must have worked because within 15 minutes the truck was out of the way and we were on our way back to Agra.
We stayed at a lavish hotel for only $120 a night, $40 per person. The hotel was a nice getaway from the normal frustrations in India. Hot water, plush towels and blankets, and gourmet food (complimentary) all gave use much needed reprieve from the adventures in the hot sun. That night we went to a local bazaar where they sold jewels. The jewelers, experienced in their trade of customer service, were certain each of us would walk away with a diamond or ruby and treated us accordingly.
One man was convinced that even if I didn't have a reason to buy a diamond or ruby yet, one would surely come soon and a half priced gem in India would save me much more money now than one would at home. Interested only to see their wares, I almost lead the man on, complementing the various gems he presented to me. Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds, Topaz, Gold, Silver, you name it, they had it and for a
guaranteed bargain price. Once we all knew it was time to leave we ceased our questions and interest in concert; we’ve been here for three weeks now, we know how this works. Perhaps considered rude at home, it was the only way to get out of the increasingly emotional business negotiations. Leaving
empty handed, the man followed us out, cooing us with last minute prices to see if he could change our minds. We left silently empty handed, but with a good story. And that always makes it worth it.
We slept little that night to wake up early to see the Taj Mahal. At 6am we ventured to the monument. The office was teeming with sellers and drivers who promised you deals you wouldn't find anywhere else. Half the adventure was meandering through them. We got our tickets, and ventured to the Taj. You enter through one of the various gates into a courtyard. The Mughal architecture surrounds you and in these anti-chambers you almost prepare yourself for the main eye-feast soon to be had. But once you step through the main gate, the Taj fills the horizon. And it takes your breath away.
Despite seeing pictures all my life, I couldn't have prepared myself for the Taj. It’s almost impossible to take in the white monolith standing omnipresently before you. And it becomes clear the message
Shar Jahan wanted to send to the Taj's onlookers. He wanted to shock you and awe you and make your realize how deep his love was for this wife. More so what power he had.
The Tomb comes up to the River Yamuna. The river was high from all the recent flooding that had happened and the pace was fast. There was no reflection in the muddied waters, but the early sun reflected off of the marble and any picture was almost too bright to see.
Inside, it was plain. White Marble halls carved to Mughal arches; empty chambers that filtered light through intricately carved window panes. Walking around inside in a circle, you felt almost part of a
religious practice, encircling a holy spot, only to catch a glimpse of the graves through more patterened glassless windows every twenty or so steps. It was almost like the Taj blossomed from the graves, offering symmetric layers that each was more sacred than the last.
After the Taj we had a nice breakfast at the hotel. That afternoon we visited Itimad-ud-Daulah on the River Yamuna. At this tomb, the intricate wall murals had survived, somehow. Despite outside the
tumultuous traffic, sandy streets, shanty shacks for shops, and trashladen ditches, the tomb had maintained its calm and serenity inside its hallowed walls. Looking out from inside the compound, you can only imagine how much has changed.
We left shortly after and made it back to Delhi within 2 hours. Overall it was a great first trip in India.
This week I began my work at Novus. As part of a shift legal
profession Novus prides itself on approaching the legal profession differently.
I won’t go into too many details, but the business models, the practical
self-analysis, and the project management focus has created a very successful
work environment. Along with what Bill Henderson has discussed in many of his
articles, this is truly showing that the legal profession has moved into a new
age; an age of project management instead of legal specialization. This new
machinery fits much better to the specific needs of clients. Over the next few
weeks, I’m excited to be a part of this already prestigious group.
During the week, I also managed to visit some Gurdwaras in
the city, a Hare Krishna temple, and do some shopping at local markets. It
seems no matter where you go in India, there is color, life, and excitement. It
paints every moment of life, from spiritual to capital, and always creates
adventure.
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